{"id":1804,"date":"2018-12-10T08:00:47","date_gmt":"2018-12-10T07:00:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/?p=1804"},"modified":"2018-12-10T08:00:47","modified_gmt":"2018-12-10T07:00:47","slug":"valparaiso-mesto-dvou-tvari","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/2018\/12\/10\/valparaiso-mesto-dvou-tvari\/","title":{"rendered":"Valpara\u00edso: m\u011bsto dvou tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><b>Valpara\u00edso je poetick\u00e9 i uboh\u00e9 z\u00e1rove\u0148. \u010clov\u011bk tu c\u00edt\u00ed t\u00edse\u0148, ale fascinuje ho pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed. Utekli jsme z prvn\u00edho hostelu a st\u00e1hli se do centra m\u011bsta. Pozorovali jsme tulen\u011b i vylod\u011bn\u00ed n\u00e1mo\u0159nictva a pak vyrazili na jih.<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Po p\u0159\u00edletu do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/2018\/12\/03\/hlavni-mesto-santiago-de-chile\/\"><b>Santiaga de<\/b><b> Chile<\/b> (v\u00edce jsem psal zde)<\/a> jsme vy\u0159\u00eddili to nejnutn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a jakmile to \u0161lo, jsme vyrazili d\u00e1l. Nejdostupn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto pro dal\u0161\u00ed cestu je nedalek\u00e9 <b>Valpara\u00edso<\/b>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1810\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1810\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1810\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Holka-na-bar\u00e1ku-mal\u00e1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\u017dena na fas\u00e1d\u011b a rys, kter\u00fd chyt\u00e1 kolib\u0159\u00edka.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1810\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed ve Valpara\u00edsu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Toto p\u0159\u00edstavn\u00ed m\u011bsto bylo domovem zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho chilsk\u00e9ho b\u00e1sn\u00edka a spisovatele <strong>Pabla Nerudy<\/strong>. Je to tak\u00e9 m\u00edsto inspiruj\u00edc\u00ed mnoh\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed spisovatele, mal\u00ed\u0159e a nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed svobodn\u00e9 um\u011blce \u010di boh\u00e9my.<\/p>\n<p>Z\u00e1jem um\u011blc\u016f o m\u011bsto m\u00e1 sv\u016fj specifick\u00fd d\u016fvod. Bude to z\u0159ejm\u011b naprosto nenapodobitelnou atmosf\u00e9rou a sm\u011bs\u00ed protiklad\u016f, kter\u00e9 nab\u00edzej\u00ed nekone\u010dnou \u0161k\u00e1lu inspirace v\u0161eho druhu. Je to m\u00edsto, kde se sv\u011bt m\u00eds\u00ed s chilskou <b>Ji\u017en\u00ed Amerikou<\/b>.<\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed p\u0159\u00edstav z\u0159ejm\u011b u\u017e historicky v\u00e1bil mnoh\u00e9 cestovatele a sn\u00edlky. M\u011bsto je toti\u017e kolem dokola obklopeno kopci, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ist\u011bhovav\u0161\u00ed se obyvatel\u00e9 postupn\u011b osidlovali.<br \/>\n<script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><br \/>\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><br \/>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/p>\n<p><b>P\u0159\u00edjezd a registrace v\u00edza<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Autobusy z hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta jezd\u00ed do Valpara\u00edsa t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 neust\u00e1le. P\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00ed na autobusovou stanici Terminal de buses, kter\u00fd ze spodn\u00edho okraje obklopuj\u00ed rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 trhy se zeleninou, ovocem a v\u0161\u00edm mo\u017en\u00fdm.<\/p>\n<p>Ulice tam okupuj\u00ed davy prodejc\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed zna\u010dn\u011b zu\u017euj\u00ed jejich pr\u016fchodnost. \u010clov\u011bk s velk\u00fdm batohem tu velmi vy\u010dn\u00edv\u00e1 a jen t\u011b\u017eko se zbavuje pocitu, \u017ee m\u00e1 st\u00e1le n\u011bkoho nalepen\u00e9ho na z\u00e1dech. Je tedy na m\u00edst\u011b si po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b hl\u00eddat batoh.<\/p>\n<p>Jako prvn\u00ed jsme z autobusov\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed zav\u00edtali nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d trhem o blok n\u00ed\u017e na m\u00edstn\u00ed <b>Policii de Investigaciones<\/b>. Po ne\u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9m sna\u017een\u00ed o <b>registr<\/b><b>aci W<\/b><b>orking Holiday <\/b><b>v\u00edz<\/b><b>a<\/b> v Santiagu de Chile to tady \u0161lo a\u017e p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b hladce. Jak jsme se cel\u00fdm procesem prokousali si m\u016f\u017eete <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/2018\/12\/06\/registrace-working-holiday-viza-v-chile-aneb-slozite-i-jednoduse\/\">p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst v odkazu (zde)<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><b>Radik\u00e1ln\u00ed prom\u011bna atmosf\u00e9ry<\/b><\/p>\n<p>P\u0159ijeli jsme do Valpara\u00edsa s rezervac\u00ed do nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho hostelu, kter\u00fd jsme na internetu na\u0161li. Podle recenz\u00ed m\u011bl b\u00fdt hezk\u00fd a bezpe\u010dn\u00fd uvnit\u0159, ov\u0161em v trochu drsn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti m\u011bsta. Konkr\u00e9tn\u011b byl hostel asi t\u0159i bloky nad jedn\u00edm z n\u011bkolika n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed nad p\u0159\u00edstavem, co\u017e je prakticky centrum m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n<p>Hned na rohu n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed n\u00e1s v\u0161ak m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u00e1n opravuj\u00edc\u00ed automobily varoval, abychom do vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed kopce s na\u0161imi n\u00e1padn\u00fdmi batohy nechodili.<\/p>\n<p>\u0158\u00edkali jsme si, \u017ee tak bl\u00edzko od n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed p\u0159ece nem\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt a\u017e tak odli\u0161n\u00e9 prost\u0159ed\u00ed. Opak v\u0161ak byl pravdou. O blok v\u00fd\u0161 se atmosf\u00e9ra radik\u00e1ln\u011b prom\u011bnila. Ru\u0161n\u00e9 ulice pln\u00e9 obchod\u016f vyst\u0159\u00eddala podivn\u00e1 t\u00edse\u0148, ostnat\u00e9 dr\u00e1ty na plotech dom\u016f, opil\u00ed lid\u00e9 padaj\u00edc\u00ed z hospod a z\u0159ejm\u011b i prostitutky kolem nich.<br \/>\n<script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><br \/>\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><br \/>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/p>\n<p><b>Prvn\u00ed hostel, \u0161patn\u00fd hostel<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Nejsme ale \u017e\u00e1dn\u00ed \u010daj\u00ed\u010dci a tak jsme tyto t\u0159i bloky state\u010dn\u011b pro\u0161li a\u017e k hostelu. Uvnit\u0159 n\u00e1s \u010dekalo v\u0159el\u00e9 p\u0159ijet\u00ed a informace, \u017ee jsme jedin\u00ed host\u00e9. Nemuseli jsme ani platit p\u0159edem a tak jsme se nast\u011bhovali do prostorn\u00e9ho pokoje, kter\u00fd jsme m\u011bli jen pro sebe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1808\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1808\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1808\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/P_20181126_194339-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Hostel backpackers ve m\u011bst\u011b Valpara\u00edso\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/P_20181126_194339-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/P_20181126_194339-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/P_20181126_194339-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1808\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bezpe\u010dn\u00fd hostel v centru s t\u00e9matickou malbou.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Pan majitel n\u00e1s provedl, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e n\u00e1s p\u0159ekvapilo mno\u017estv\u00ed toulav\u00fdch ko\u010dek, kter\u00e9 k hostelu \u00fadajn\u011b nepat\u0159\u00ed a samy tam chod\u00ed d\u00edrami ve st\u0159e\u0161e. V cel\u00e9 zemi je z n\u011bjak\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu velmi v\u0159el\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstup k toulav\u00fdm zv\u00ed\u0159at\u016fm, kter\u00e1 bez probl\u00e9mu chod\u00ed snad v\u0161ude.<\/p>\n<p>V pokoji jsme pak p\u0159ej\u00edmali nad v\u00fdhledem na ostnat\u00e9 dr\u00e1ty a podivn\u00e9, ned\u016fv\u011bryhodn\u011b chlupat\u00e9 deky, kter\u00e9 na prvn\u00ed pohled vypadaly dlouho nemyt\u00e9. P\u0159itom jsem n\u00e1hodou chytil na noze blechu. To byla asi posledn\u00ed kapka pro rozhodnut\u00ed rychle opustit m\u00edsto.<\/p>\n<p>Pod\u00edvali jsme se na internet po jin\u00fdch mo\u017enostech, hodili jsme batohy na z\u00e1da, pod\u011bkovali jsme za uk\u00e1zku a zmizeli. Na druh\u00fd pokus jsme ji\u017e na\u0161li p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 m\u00edsto nad jednou z hlavn\u00edch ulic u p\u0159\u00edstavu. Jen jsme te\u010f jako cizinci registrovan\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b na adrese onoho hostelu, ze kter\u00e9ho jsme utekli.<\/p>\n<p><b>Chudoba a dostatek<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Ve Valapra\u00edsu z\u00edsk\u00e1 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk pocit, \u017ee se zde m\u00eds\u00ed naprost\u00e1 chudoba a dostatek. Mezi m\u00edstn\u00edmi se potuluj\u00ed bezdomovci a propl\u00e9taj\u00ed se z\u00e1padn\u00ed turist\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed tak n\u011bjak vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00ed v m\u00edstech s pouli\u010dn\u00edmi grafity, pomo\u010den\u00fdmi z\u00e1kout\u00edmi a pohozen\u00fdmi pytli odpadk\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>Prvn\u00ed dojem i z relativn\u011b bezpe\u010dn\u00e9ho centra byla sp\u00ed\u0161 \u00fazkost. V Santiagu de Chile chud\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 prod\u00e1vali mezi automobily nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v\u011bci, av\u0161ak zde se mimo pouli\u010dn\u00ed prodejce pohybuj\u00ed nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed individua, kter\u00e1 prost\u011b jen \u017e\u00e1daj\u00ed o pen\u00edze. M\u011bli jsme zde podobn\u00fd pocit jako v \u0161ir\u0161\u00edm centru Santiaga, s podobn\u00fdmi jevy, jen o \u00farove\u0148 a\u017e dv\u011b n\u00ed\u017e.<br \/>\n<script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><br \/>\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><br \/>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/p>\n<p><b>Grafity \u0161kared\u00e9 i kr\u00e1sn\u00e9<\/b><\/p>\n<p>P\u0159esto se do toho v\u0161eho m\u00eds\u00ed p\u011bkn\u00e9 restaurace a turistick\u00e9 apartm\u00e1ny. Mezi kopci s m\u00edstn\u00edmi chatr\u010demi se vt\u011bsnaly um\u011bleck\u00e9 d\u00edlny a \u0161kared\u00e9 pouli\u010dn\u00ed grafity st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed na zdech mnoh\u00fdch dom\u016f skute\u010dn\u00e1 um\u011bleck\u00e1 d\u00edla. To v\u0161ak z\u0159ejm\u011b jen na kopc\u00edch bli\u017e\u0161\u00edch k centru.<\/p>\n<p>D\u00e1l za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 skute\u010dn\u00e1 lidsk\u00e1 d\u017eungle. Trochu mi to p\u0159ipomn\u011blo pocit, kter\u00fd jsem m\u011bl v <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/2017\/08\/16\/lesk-a-bida-neapole\/\">italsk\u00e9 <b>Neapoli<\/b> (psal jsem zde)<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>P\u0159i postupn\u00e9m pr\u016fzkumu m\u011bsta v\u0161ak \u00fazkost odpadla a postupn\u011b jsme se odv\u00e1\u017eili na dal\u0161\u00ed a dal\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta. Si nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u00edstem je pak kopec <b>Cerro Alegre<\/b>, jeho\u017e um\u011bleck\u00e9 zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed maleb na fas\u00e1d\u00e1ch dom\u016f je m\u00edsty a\u017e skute\u010dn\u011b dech berouc\u00ed. V\u00edce ve fotogalerii na konci \u010dl\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n<p><b>Pozorov\u00e1n\u00ed tule\u0148\u016f i n\u00e1mo\u0159nictva<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Do\u0161li jsme tak\u00e9 za p\u0159\u00edstav, kde poz\u016fstatek mola hostil kolonii lachtan\u016f. Jejich pozorov\u00e1n\u00edm jsme str\u00e1vili cel\u00e9 odpoledne. Je to nekone\u010dn\u00fd zdroj z\u00e1bavy. Zv\u00ed\u0159ata d\u011blaj\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed zvuky a neust\u00e1le se p\u0159eskupuj\u00ed. N\u011bkter\u00e1 padala z plo\u0161iny dol\u016f a p\u0159i snaze dostat se zp\u011bt na v\u00fdslun\u00ed je ostatn\u00ed vystrkovali zp\u011bt do mo\u0159e.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1814\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1814\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1814\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Vylod\u011bn\u00ed-ve-Valpara\u00edsu-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Chilsk\u00e1 n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed armada se vylodila na pl\u00e1\u017ei ve Valpara\u00edsu\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1814\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vylod\u011bn\u00ed n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed armady na pl\u00e1\u017ei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Str\u00e1vili jsme tak\u00e9 den na pl\u00e1\u017ei hned vedle chilsk\u00e9 n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed z\u00e1kladny. Pl\u00e1\u017e sice byla jakousi sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed z\u00e1kladny s cedul\u00ed z\u00e1kaz vstupu, ale m\u00edstn\u00ed tam bez probl\u00e9mu chodili. I voj\u00e1k na str\u00e1\u017ei n\u00e1s tam vpustil a je\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1m zasalutoval.<\/p>\n<p>M\u011bli jsme tak mo\u017enost pozorovat chilsk\u00e9 n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00ed s\u00edly v\u010detn\u011b ponorky. Stali jsme tak\u00e9 sv\u011bdky n\u00e1cviku vylod\u011bn\u00ed chilsk\u00e9 armady mezi d\u011btmi hraj\u00edc\u00edmi si na pl\u00e1\u017ei. T\u011bm se v\u0161ak \u010dlunu uh\u00fdbat necht\u011blo a tak je n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edci museli p\u0159ed p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00edm vyh\u00e1n\u011bt.<br \/>\n<script async src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><br \/>\n<ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><br \/>\n<script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><\/p>\n<p><b>Velk\u00fd p\u0159esun<\/b><\/p>\n<p>Po d\u016fkladn\u00e9m zv\u00e1\u017een\u00ed mo\u017enost\u00ed ve st\u0159edn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti <b>Chile<\/b> jsme dosp\u011bli k z\u00e1v\u011bru, \u017ee bez auta je pobyt v t\u011bchto \u010d\u00e1stech zem\u011b velmi n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd. Mo\u017enost\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je poskrovnu nebo je p\u0159edra\u017een\u00e9 a nav\u00edc jednou z m\u00e1la aktivit jsou zde n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy mnoha vina\u0159stv\u00ed, kter\u00e9 klidn\u011b o\u017eel\u00edme.<\/p>\n<p>Rozhodli jsme se proto u\u010dinit velk\u00fd p\u0159esun o tis\u00edc kilometr\u016f n\u00ed\u017e do p\u0159\u00edrody ji\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00edho regionu <b>Sur Chico<\/b>. Zam\u00ed\u0159ili jsme tak do panoramatick\u00e9 krajiny mezi p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed parky, jezera a vulk\u00e1ny. Dvan\u00e1ctihodinov\u00fd no\u010dn\u00ed p\u0159esun autobusem v cen\u011b 12 000 pesos (asi 400 k\u010d) n\u00e1s tak dopravil a\u017e do m\u011bsta <b>Puc\u00f3n<\/b>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1813\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1813\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1813\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Malba-na-fas\u00e1d\u011b-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed zakomponovan\u00e9 do fas\u00e1dy ve Valpara\u00edsu.\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1813\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malba zakomponovan\u00e1 na fas\u00e1d\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1812\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1812\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1812\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-150x112.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-696x522.jpg 696w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor-1068x801.jpg 1068w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Valparaiso-de-mi-amor.jpg 1383w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1812\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Valpara\u00edso de mi amor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1815\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1815\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1815\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed se zakomponovan\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem ulice.\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-150x200.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-300x400.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie-696x928.jpg 696w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Cerdocracie.jpg 1037w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1815\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cerdokracie &#8211; Prasokracie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1807\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1807\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1807\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Polorozpadl\u00e9 molo s koloni\u00ed lachtan\u016f v Chile ve m\u011bst\u011b Valpara\u00edso\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-696x522.jpg 696w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-1068x801.jpg 1068w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/DSCN0623-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1807\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lachtani ve Valpara\u00edsu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Valpara\u00edso je poetick\u00e9 i uboh\u00e9 z\u00e1rove\u0148. \u010clov\u011bk tu c\u00edt\u00ed t\u00edse\u0148, ale fascinuje ho pouli\u010dn\u00ed um\u011bn\u00ed. Utekli jsme z prvn\u00edho hostelu a st\u00e1hli se do centra m\u011bsta. Pozorovali jsme tulen\u011b i vylod\u011bn\u00ed n\u00e1mo\u0159nictva a pak vyrazili na jih.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1809,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[546],"tags":[325,136,691,692,688,689,693,694,686,690,562,695,696,697,698,574,699,335],"class_list":["post-1804","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile","tag-chile","tag-hostel","tag-namornictvo","tag-pablo-neruda","tag-pdi","tag-policia-de-investigaciones","tag-ponorka","tag-pristav","tag-registrace-viza","tag-registro-civil","tag-santiago-de-chile","tag-terminal-de-buses","tag-trh","tag-tuleni","tag-valparaiso","tag-vizum","tag-vylodeni","tag-working-holiday"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Mapuche-scaled.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1804","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1804"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1804\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1809"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1804"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1804"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1804"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}