{"id":1925,"date":"2019-01-08T08:00:22","date_gmt":"2019-01-08T07:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/?p=1925"},"modified":"2019-01-08T08:00:22","modified_gmt":"2019-01-08T07:00:22","slug":"carretera-austral-silnice-v-zajeti-casu-a-prostoru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/2019\/01\/08\/carretera-austral-silnice-v-zajeti-casu-a-prostoru\/","title":{"rendered":"Carretera Austral: silnice v zajet\u00ed \u010dasu a prostoru\ufeff"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><strong>Patagonie je syrov\u00fd sv\u011bt \u010dist\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrody. Lid\u00e9 jsou zde vz\u00e1cn\u00ed a mo\u017enost\u00ed m\u00e1lo. Vede tudy silnice Carretera Austral s nespolehlivou dopravou. Dostat se sem je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 a odtud je\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. P\u0159ekonat 500 kilometr\u016f do nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edho m\u011bsta n\u00e1m zabralo skoro t\u00fdden.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ji\u017e d\u0159\u00edve jsem psal \u00favahu o tom, jak lze <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/2018\/04\/10\/v-zajeti-casu\/\">\u010das vn\u00edmat rozd\u00edln\u00fdmi zp\u016fsoby (v\u00edce zde)<\/a>. Jsme zvykl\u00ed, \u017ee \u010das znamen\u00e1 v\u0161echno. Tentokr\u00e1t jsme se v\u0161ak ocitli v m\u00edstech, kde \u010das nehraje \u017e\u00e1dnou roli. K tomu se p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1 t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nekone\u010dn\u00fd prostor. Jsou to pojmy n\u00e1m v Evrop\u011b t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nezn\u00e1m\u00e9 a je zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, jak v tomto prost\u0159ed\u00ed p\u0159e\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed lid\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Carretera Austral&nbsp;v&nbsp;severn\u00ed&nbsp;Patagonii<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Silnice <strong>Carretera Austral<\/strong> le\u017e\u00ed p\u0159esn\u011b v takov\u00e9m mezi\u010dase a meziprostrou. Lidsk\u00e1 s\u00edla s enormn\u00edmi n\u00e1klady vyrvala tuto silnici z n\u00e1ru\u010de netknut\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrody. Ani p\u0159esto tady z\u00e1kony lid\u00ed neplat\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Plat\u00ed tu z\u00e1kony p\u0159\u00edrody. A bude-li  p\u0159\u00edroda cht\u00edt vezme si zp\u00e1tky to, co si tu lid\u00e9 p\u0159isvojili. A\u010dkoli si \u00fazem\u00ed geopoliticky p\u0159isvojil st\u00e1t <strong>Chile<\/strong>, tak tento prostor nen\u00ed na nikom z\u00e1visl\u00fd. To pouze lid\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed do n\u011bj zav\u00edtaj\u00ed \u010di tu cht\u011bj\u00ed \u017e\u00edt, jsou z\u00e1visl\u00ed na n\u011bm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sv\u011bt lid\u00ed se vyzna\u010duje snahou ovl\u00e1dnout a podrobit si okoln\u00ed prostor. Tady v\u0161ak omezen\u00fd lidsk\u00fd prostor prostupuje p\u0159\u00edroda a jejich p\u0159\u00edtomnost se jev\u00ed pouze jako do\u010dasn\u00e1. Stav\u011bt permanentn\u00ed p\u0159\u00edbytky tu tak n\u011bjak ned\u00e1v\u00e1 smysl, nato\u017e se tu napevno usazovat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pokud se tu budou lid\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 roztahovat, tak si s nimi p\u0159\u00edroda hrav\u011b porad\u00ed. A\u0165 u\u017e prost\u0159ednictv\u00edm vulk\u00e1n\u016f, sesuv\u016f p\u016fdy, z\u00e1plavami \u010di jin\u00fdmi zp\u016fsoby. To je <strong>Patagonie<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script async=\"\" src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><br>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Chait\u00e9n<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Chait\u00e9n.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Chait\u00e9n.jpg\" alt=\"Hlavn\u00ed ulice p\u0159\u00edstavu Chait\u00e9n na silnici Carretera Austral v Patagonii.\" class=\"wp-image-1927\" width=\"183\" height=\"137\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Chait\u00e9n<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Kdy\u017e v roce 2008 vybuchla sopka <strong>Chait\u00e9n <\/strong>nedaleko stejnojmenn\u00e9ho m\u011bste\u010dka, bylo toto m\u00edsto vys\u00eddleno a na roky prakticky zapomenuto. Nyn\u00ed se sem \u017eivot pomalu vrac\u00ed, ale nen\u00ed ho moc. Ti, kte\u0159\u00ed se vr\u00e1tili, \u017eij\u00ed neust\u00e1le ve st\u00ednu sopky. A m\u011bli by si d\u00e1vat velk\u00fd pozor, aby ji zbyte\u010dn\u011b nedr\u00e1\u017edili.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V dob\u011b na\u0161\u00ed\nn\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy mezi v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edmi sv\u00e1tky bylo m\u011bste\u010dko t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159\nvybydlen\u00e9. Fungovalo pouze to z\u00e1kladn\u00ed jako benz\u00ednka, n\u011bkolik\ndrobn\u00fdch, p\u0159edra\u017een\u00fdch obchod\u016f a nemnoho turistick\u00e9\ninfrastruktury. V\u0161e sp\u00ed\u0161 trochu z povinnosti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>M\u011bsto je obehn\u00e1no ostnat\u00fdm dr\u00e1tem a jeho hranice jsou jasn\u011b vymezen\u00e9. Je tu n\u011bkolik mo\u017enost\u00ed turistick\u00e9ho vy\u017eit\u00ed v\u010detn\u011b park\u016f a vulk\u00e1n\u016f, ale jejich dostupnost je n\u00e1kladn\u00e1. Jinak tu mnoho zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho nehledejte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Turistick<\/strong><strong>\u00e1\nkancel\u00e1\u0159 <\/strong><strong>a <\/strong><strong>kemp<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pozoruhodnost\u00ed\nChait\u00e9nu je takzvan\u00e1 turistick\u00e1 kancel\u00e1\u0159, kterou vede Ameri\u010dan\nNikolas. Z\u0159ejm\u011b se tady tak\u00e9 tak trochu zasekl v \u010dase. Vypt\u00e1n\u00ed\ninformac\u00ed ohledn\u011b autobus\u016f trvalo prvn\u00ed den po na\u0161em p\u0159\u00edjezdu\ntak dlouho, a\u017e jsme se rozhodli j\u00edt do kempu a z\u016fstat tu dal\u0161\u00ed\nnoc. \n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vybaven\u00ed kempu bylo nanejv\u00fd\u0161 z\u00e1kladn\u00ed. Fungovala tu sice tepl\u00e1 voda a internet, ale s va\u0159en\u00edm to u\u017e bylo hor\u0161\u00ed. Za 5000 pesos (166 K\u010d) na jednoho tu nebyly ani \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 z\u00e1kladn\u00ed ingredience jako olej \u010di s\u016fl. K va\u0159en\u00ed samotn\u00e9mu byl k dispozici jeden obouchan\u00fd kastr\u016flek.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spor\u00e1k nav\u00edc Milen\u011b i dal\u0161\u00edm host\u016fm m\u00e1lem op\u00e1lil hlavu, jeliko\u017e jeden z ho\u0159\u00e1k\u016f pou\u0161t\u011bl podstatn\u011b v\u00edc plynu, ne\u017e m\u011bl. Sice jsem u toho nebyl, ale Mil\u010da to popsala jako p\u016flmetrov\u00fd plamen. Majitelka kempu se rozhodla jednat a\u017e po upozorn\u011bn\u00ed od Mil\u010di, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e nakreslila na spor\u00e1k cosi fixou.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<script async=\"\" src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><br>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den p\u00e1rty v kempu<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V Chait\u00e9nu jsme nakonec str\u00e1vili t\u0159i noci, z \u010deho\u017e dv\u011b v kempu. Shodou okolnost\u00ed jsme tu str\u00e1vili i \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Majitelka kempu se sv\u00fdmi n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky nenechala jinak omezovat a tak n\u00e1m \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd ve\u010der zp\u0159\u00edjemnila hlasitou diskot\u00e9kou a\u017e do p\u016fl druh\u00e9 r\u00e1no.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Jak se dostat z\nChait\u00e9nu?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Z Chait\u00e9nu jezd\u00ed pouze n\u011bkolik autobus\u016f. Jednou za \u010das do <strong>Puerto Montt<\/strong>, jednou denn\u011b do <strong>La Junta<\/strong> a v sez\u00f3n\u011b dvakr\u00e1t denn\u011b do turistick\u00e9 d\u00edry <strong>Futaleuf\u00fa<\/strong>. Dvakr\u00e1t v t\u00fddnu tak\u00e9 \u00fadajn\u011b jede p\u0159\u00edm\u00fd autobus do <strong>Coyhaique<\/strong>. Ten v\u0161ak kv\u016fli sv\u00e1tk\u016fm nejel, co\u017e jsme zjistili a\u017e v den \u00fadajn\u00e9ho odjezdu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na\u0161\u00edm kolegou byl po dobu pobytu N\u011bmec, kter\u00fd se tu s n\u00e1mi tak\u00e9 zasekl. P\u0159ijel sem z Futaleuf\u00fa v dobr\u00e9 v\u00ed\u0159e, \u017ee najde lep\u0161\u00ed spojen\u00ed do Coyhaique, ale moc si t\u00edm nepomohl. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kdy\u017e p\u0159\u00edm\u00fd autobus nejel, rozhodli jsme se stopovat. N\u00e1\u0161 n\u011bmeck\u00fd a l\u00e9pe organizovan\u00fd kolega za\u010dal z r\u00e1na kolem dev\u00e1t\u00e9. Kdy\u017e jsme ho v\u0161ak kolem poledne na\u0161li st\u00e1le v Chait\u00e9nu, bylo n\u00e1m jasn\u00e9, \u017ee z toho asi nic nebude.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Villa Santa Luc\u00eda<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Kostel\u00edk-ve-Villa-Santa-Luc\u00eda.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Kostel\u00edk-ve-Villa-Santa-Luc\u00eda-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Osada na cest\u011b Carretera Austral v Chile\" class=\"wp-image-1929\" width=\"264\" height=\"198\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Kostel\u00edk v osad\u011b Villa Santa Luc\u00eda<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>M\u00edsto toho jsme ale objevili autobus jedouc\u00ed do Futaleuf\u00fa p\u0159es horskou enkl\u00e1vu <strong>Villa Santa Luc\u00eda<\/strong>. N\u011bmec, kter\u00fd si touto cestou projel asi v\u011bd\u011bl sv\u00e9 a tak rad\u011bji z\u016fstal v Chait\u00e9nu. My sko\u010dili na autobus a vyrazili za p\u0159ijateln\u00fdch 1500 pesos (50 K\u010d) na jednoho do Santa Luc\u00ede. \u0158\u00edkali jsme si, \u017ee zkus\u00edme stopovat tam.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Villa Santa Luc\u00eda je ale po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 d\u00edra. Je tu jeden p\u0159edra\u017een\u00fd obchod, jeho\u017e majitelka n\u00e1s je\u0161t\u011b nat\u00e1hla. P\u016fvodn\u011b jsem si \u0159\u00edkal, \u017ee je to prost\u011b drah\u00e9, proto\u017ee tu \u0161iroko daleko nic nen\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u0160el jsem proto je\u0161t\u011b pro jistotu dokoupit trochu pe\u010diva a nejsp\u00ed\u0161 jej\u00ed dcera mi za kus na\u00fa\u010dtovala o bezm\u00e1la dv\u011b koruny m\u00e9n\u011b ne\u017e p\u0159i p\u0159edchoz\u00edm n\u00e1kupu. No lep\u0161\u00ed se tu nezdr\u017eovat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Byli jsme pak velmi r\u00e1di, \u017ee n\u00e1m na stop zastavilo jedno ze t\u0159\u00ed aut, kter\u00e9 tudy za dobu na\u0161eho n\u011bkolika hodinov\u00e9ho pobytu projely. Shodou okolnost\u00ed to byl rozvozce ryb, kter\u00e9ho jsme vid\u011bli u\u017e ono to r\u00e1no v Chait\u00e9nu. Na poprv\u00e9 n\u00e1m ale nezastavil. Byla to pro n\u011bj nov\u00e1 zku\u0161enost a odvezl n\u00e1s panoramatickou silnic\u00ed Carretera Austral a\u017e do p\u0159estupn\u00edho bodu &#8211; m\u011bste\u010dka <strong>La Junta<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script async=\"\" src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><br>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>La Junta neboli\npast na turisty<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Mirador nad m\u011bste\u010dkem La Junta\" class=\"wp-image-1930\" width=\"228\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-150x112.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-696x522.jpg 696w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru-1068x801.jpg 1068w, https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/La-Junta-z-miradoru.jpg 1383w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 228px) 100vw, 228px\" \/><\/a><figcaption>La Junta<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>M\u011bste\u010dko <strong>La Junta<\/strong> le\u017e\u00ed uprost\u0159ed syrov\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrody na jedin\u00e9 spojnici ze severu na jih. Jak\u00e1koli pozemn\u00ed doprava proto proch\u00e1z\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b tudy. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u0159esto\u017ee je to \u201edopravn\u00ed uzel\u201c, tak je tu pom\u011brn\u011b mizern\u00e9 spojen\u00ed autobusy. Ani aut tu mnoho nejezd\u00ed. Cht\u011bli jsme stopovat, ale zjistili jsme, \u017ee ba\u0165\u016f\u0159k\u00e1\u0159\u016f v podobn\u00e9 situaci je tu nejsp\u00ed\u0161 mnohem v\u00edc, ne\u017e dopravy, kter\u00e1 by je odtud mohla odv\u00e9zt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Kapli\u010dka-v-La-Junta.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Kapli\u010dka-v-La-Junta-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Kapli\u010dka ve m\u011bste\u010dku La Junta na silnici Carretera Austral\" class=\"wp-image-1928\" width=\"228\" height=\"171\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Kapli\u010dka v La Junta<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto <strong>Coyhaique <\/strong>je vzd\u00e1leno bezm\u00e1la 300 kilometr\u016f. Z toho je t\u0159etina nezpevn\u011bn\u00e9 \u0161t\u011brkov\u00e9 cesty, kolem kter\u00e9 nen\u00ed zhola nic, jen p\u0159\u00edroda. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Autobus odtud jezd\u00ed do Coyhaique ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no v p\u011bt. Stoj\u00ed 12 000 pesos (cca 400 K\u010d). V dob\u011b na\u0161eho p\u0159\u00edjezdu v\u0161ak u\u017e byly v\u0161echny l\u00edstky na dal\u0161\u00ed den vyprodan\u00e9. M\u011blo pr\u0161et a tak se do autobusu st\u00e1hli asi i ti nad\u0161enci, kte\u0159\u00ed by jinak rad\u011bji stopovali. Cht\u011b necht\u011b jsme tu proto museli z\u016fstat.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Kaban\u011b od\nbabi\u010dky<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nejprve jsme hledali kemp. P\u0159itom n\u00e1m p\u00e1n z m\u00edstn\u00ed restaurace nab\u00eddl na p\u0159es p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed den spoluj\u00edzdu autem do Coyhaique. Zat\u00edm, co jsem zji\u0161\u0165oval mo\u017enosti uvnit\u0159, tak u Mil\u010di zastavil pickup s p\u00e1nem a babi\u010dkou, kter\u00e1 na n\u00ed u\u017e z d\u00e1lky m\u00e1vala. P\u016fvodn\u011b si Mil\u010da myslela, \u017ee z n\u00ed m\u00e1 babi\u010dka prost\u011b radost a proto m\u00e1v\u00e1.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Babi\u010dka j\u00ed v\u0161ak\np\u0159ijela nab\u00eddnout kabani (\u0161pan\u011blsky Caba\u0148a), tedy chatku k\npron\u00e1jmu. Na n\u011bjak\u00e9 pocity nebo d\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed n\u011b\u010deho pro radost se\ntu prost\u011b nehraje. Kdo v Chile nevnut\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016fm alespo\u0148\nn\u011bjakou kabani, jako by ani nebyl. Chv\u00edlemi n\u00e1m to u\u017e p\u0159ipad\u00e1\njako n\u00e1rodn\u00ed sport. Trochu jako hra na zp\u016fsob: \u201eo\u0161kubej si\nsv\u00e9ho turistu\u201c. \n<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Pol\u00e9vka-z-Mejillon\u016f.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Pol\u00e9vka-z-Mejillon\u016f-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Pol\u00e9vka v cabani v La Junta.\" class=\"wp-image-1935\" width=\"209\" height=\"157\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Pol\u00e9vka z dar\u016f mo\u0159e od babi\u010dky.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Babi\u010dka v\u0161ak podala nejlep\u0161\u00ed nab\u00eddku v cen\u011b 15 000 pesos (cca 500 K\u010d)  <br>za noc. Ostatn\u00ed mo\u017enosti byly n\u00e1sobn\u011b v\u00fd\u0161. Mil\u010de se v t\u00e9 dob\u011b zrovna rozjela r\u00fdma a p\u011bkn\u011b k\u00fdchala, tak\u017ee jsme se rozhodli jej\u00ed nab\u00eddku p\u0159ijmout. M\u011bli jsme pak pro sebe celou chatku s palandami, ale hlavn\u011b kamna.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Babi\u010dka n\u00e1m n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t dala mravok\u00e1rn\u00e9 k\u00e1z\u00e1n\u00ed. Pozvala n\u00e1s tak\u00e9 na dom\u00e1c\u00ed chl\u00e9b a podarovala n\u00e1s s\u00e1\u010dkem mo\u0159sk\u00fdch plod\u016f do pol\u00e9vky, kter\u00e9 shodou okolnost\u00ed zakoupila od z\u00e1vozn\u00edka ryb, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s p\u0159edt\u00edm svezl do m\u011bsta. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u0159i na\u0161em odjezdu a placen\u00ed babi\u010dka nezapomn\u011bla zd\u016fraznit, \u017ee norm\u00e1ln\u00ed cena je 20 000 za noc, ale proto\u017ee tu zrovna moc turist\u016f nen\u00ed, tak pro n\u00e1s ud\u011blali v\u00fdjimku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<script async=\"\" src=\"\/\/pagead2.googlesyndication.com\/pagead\/js\/adsbygoogle.js\"><\/script><!-- Automatick\u00e1 velikost reklamy --><ins class=\"adsbygoogle\" style=\"display: block;\" data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-9221645303649413\" data-ad-slot=\"8661693083\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-full-width-responsive=\"true\"><\/ins><script>\n(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});\n<\/script><br>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>V Junt\u011b pomn\u00edk\ndikt\u00e1tora<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk-dikt\u00e1tora-Pinocheta.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk-dikt\u00e1tora-Pinocheta-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Augusto Pinochet vysvobodil stavbou silnice Carretera Austral vesnici La Junta\" class=\"wp-image-1934\" width=\"227\" height=\"170\"\/><\/a><figcaption>Pam\u00e1tn\u00edk dikt\u00e1tora Augusto Pinocheta v obci La Junta.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>B\u011bhem na\u0161eho pobytu se mi poda\u0159ilo ud\u011blat pr\u016fzkum okol\u00ed, p\u0159i kter\u00e9m jsem zjistil, \u017ee v nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edm okol\u00ed v\u016fbec nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho nen\u00ed. Tedy kdy\u017e nepo\u010d\u00edt\u00e1me pam\u00e1tn\u00edk dikt\u00e1tora Augusto Pinocheta, kter\u00e9ho zde maj\u00ed ve velk\u00e9 \u00fact\u011b. Stavbou silnice Carretera Austral toti\u017e obyvatele La Junty vysvobodil z izolace. Za to mu zde z\u0159\u00eddili pam\u00e1tn\u00edk uprost\u0159ed silnice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bez auta a mo\u017enosti p\u0159epravy na dlouh\u00e9 vzd\u00e1lenosti tu \u010dlov\u011bk s\u00e1m nezm\u016f\u017ee zhola nic. M\u016f\u017ee si samoz\u0159ejm\u011b najmout n\u011bjakou m\u00edstn\u00ed agenturu, kter\u00e1 ho za pat\u0159i\u010dn\u00fd pen\u00edz povoz\u00ed, kam si zrovna zamane.  <br>To ale nen\u00ed zp\u016fsob, kter\u00fdm bychom cht\u011bli cestovat.   <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Cesta do\nCoyhaique<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignleft is-resized\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/V\u00fdhled-na-Carretera-Austral.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/V\u00fdhled-na-Carretera-Austral-1024x743.jpg\" alt=\"V\u00fdhled z auta pod\u00e9l cesty Carretera Austral v Chile.\" class=\"wp-image-1937\" width=\"289\" height=\"210\"\/><\/a><figcaption>V\u00fdhled pod\u00e9l silnice Carretera Austral.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Z\u016fstali jsme ve vesni\u010dce La Junta nakonec dv\u011b noci a vyu\u017eili nab\u00eddku od p\u00e1na z restaurace, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s za 10 000 pesos (cca 330 K\u010d) na jednoho vzal s sebou na p\u011btihodinovou cestu do m\u011bsta Coyhaique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Na nezpevn\u011bn\u00fdch \u00fasec\u00edch se n\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d nezapomn\u011bl d\u016fkladn\u011b pok\u0159i\u017eovat. Mezi \u0159e\u010d\u00ed n\u00e1m cestou tak\u00e9 p\u0159ipomn\u011bl m\u00edstn\u00ed mantru na t\u00e9ma pen\u011bz: \u201emucho euros, c\u00f3mo ustedes\u201c tedy v p\u0159ekladu: \u201emnoho eur, jako m\u00e1te vy\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Je to obl\u00edben\u00e1 v\u00fdmluva m\u00edstn\u00edch na jakoukoli st\u00ed\u017enost n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f na p\u0159emr\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 chilsk\u00e9 ceny. Bezpe\u010dn\u011b jsme s n\u00edm v\u0161ak dorazili do Coyhaique, hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta regionu <strong>Ays\u00e9n<\/strong>&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Patagonie je syrov\u00fd sv\u011bt \u010dist\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrody. Lid\u00e9 jsou zde vz\u00e1cn\u00ed a mo\u017enost\u00ed m\u00e1lo. Vede tudy silnice Carretera Austral s nespolehlivou dopravou. Dostat se sem je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 a odtud je\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. P\u0159ekonat 500 kilometr\u016f do nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00edho m\u011bsta n\u00e1m zabralo skoro t\u00fdden.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1944,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[546],"tags":[748,749,750,733,735,325,751,462,752,753,555,754,755,756,335],"class_list":["post-1925","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chile","tag-augusto-pinochet","tag-autobusy","tag-aysen","tag-carretera-austral","tag-chaiten","tag-chile","tag-coyhaique","tag-doprava","tag-futaleufu","tag-la-junta","tag-patagonie","tag-stop","tag-stopovani","tag-villa-santa-lucia","tag-working-holiday"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Nahledovka-mensi-2.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1925","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1925"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1925\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1944"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1925"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1925"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jindrichsmitka.cz\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1925"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}